All times are UTC

 




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 73 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 3 4 58 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:42 pm 
Offline
Site Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1016
Name: Bruce
Location: Biggleswade
Well I kind of got into this by accident, sitting in an MOT waiting area browsing the magazines and an advert caught my eye for kit car parts, not that this a usual area of interest for me so cant really say why, but I did some googling and one thing led to another and the next thing I know is I’ve got all excited about building a kit car.

Now it’s not really a kit car in the sense of buying all the bits and bolting them together but more of a case of literally building as much as possible myself from raw materials and utilising parts from other cars. I’ve bought both MIG and TIG welders second hand with a combined cost of £800 + about £200 on consumables, ironically for around that money I could have bought a fully welded chassis complete but that’s not the point, a large part of the drive for me is to learn the skills and fabricate and finish as many parts as I can myself, an undertaking which I am not taking lightly.

Over the past 12 – 18 months I’ve been gathering tools and a few bits and pieces, creating a decent man cave to work in and although its not big enough to do the chassis in it’s a nice enough area to work on all the small parts.

Apart from all the usual spanners, screwdrivers and socket sets etc etc that are obviously going to be needed I either already had or collected quite a few bits, some of the main ones are:

• Compressor
• Murex 245A Mig Welder
• PortaMig 220A Tig Welder
• Angle grinder (could do with 2 or 3 to save switching discs)
• Sand Blast Cabinet
• Pillar Drill
• Battery Drill x 2
• 110v Mains Drill
• Various Air Tools
• Metal Chop Saw
• Old Cooker

Lots of confusion to start with in terms of choice of running gear, in the end it was decided by opportunity, a set of Granada Scorpio Cosworth running gear including front uprights, rear hubs, disc brakes all round, koala diff and driveshaft’s came up on ebay and I bagged the lot for £100 so that decided that. The guy also had the wheels off the car with legal tyres which I also had for an extra £50. I also kept the BMW diff, shafts and prop as an option.

Image
Image

Choice of engine, this got me for a while but I finally chose the BMW 3.0 V8, Why? Cos it’s a V8 :) and it looks good. Simples!

I chose to buy a complete car even though I only wanted the engine, this was so I could drive it round a bit, make sure everything was ok and be 100% sure I wasn’t missing any bits. Also this way I could sell all the other bits to recoup some money, in the end the car including transport and other fees owed me about £850 and I managed to get about £2000 back over 6 months of breaking it and still have the engine as well. The extra money was used to pay for the extra tools and stuff above.

Donor BMW, 1994 E38 730i
Image

Engine Removed From Donor
Image

As I knew the engine was going to be a tight fit I made up a wooden frame to the same dimensions as the book chassis, the first trial fit proved that the odd shaped sump would definitely be in the way, as would the alternator. Unfortunately the sump also contains the oil pump which is chain driven below the crankshaft so modifying the sump is not going to be an option so the plan is to go with a dry sump system, this will mean another expensive outlay but at least I can put it off till much later in the build. Also the alternator is going to be in the way so will have find an alternative arrangement for that as well.

Image
Image


Last edited by The V8 Files on Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:36 pm, edited 4 times in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:07 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2012 2:10 pm
Posts: 29
Name:
Location: Leighton Buzzard Bedfordshire
Hi bruce

Good to meet you the other day,had a few thoughts about your build so posting here ,instead of making the chassis and trying to get the v8 to fit what about making the build table with a hole in it ( I can flip that sheet re etch lines and cut out hole) mount the engine and gearbox to the table and build the chassis around it you could set a jig for the front wish bone brackets so they are in the same place,the rest can then adjusted to suit up till the rear section that will be standard book.

Anybody think this is a good idear :?: or am I talking sh**e

cheers

Rich

_________________
http://s1294.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 7/library/


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:33 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:51 pm
Posts: 84
Name:
Location: Southminster Essex
That is the way I would do it but you have to be careful that you can still get the engine out again after you've made the chassis. I've also suggested ways on how to make fitting standard size body parts work with the size of the engine as well.

_________________
Fabricator of Roadster chassis and suspension parts using engineering machines and experience .


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:56 pm 
Offline
Site Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1016
Name: Bruce
Location: Biggleswade
Forgot about my own build thread, should really try and add something to it! Oops

Rich, is this your polite way of saying that I'm such a short arse I need a complete custom chassis making just so I can reach the pedals :lol: :lol: :lol: For everyone else's amusement I sat in rich's car and my feet must have been at least 3" to 4" away from the pedals :oops:

Seriously though Rich that does sound like a bloody good idea, I've got 12No 2.4m lengths of old racking bars that I was going to use to build a support frame out of for the table so they will definitely come in useful and that can also go on to the next builder :D :D

Image

Phil, my head's going round in circles at the minute, which bodywork post do you mean?


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:54 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:51 pm
Posts: 84
Name:
Location: Southminster Essex
If your 3-4" from the pedals and there is no seat it means you have room for the seat to adjusted, you run in to problems when your back is against the steel work and can still reach the pedals.
The body work post I'm talking about is the one where I told you to lift the top chassis rail,raise the seat base, push the bulk head back and run the steering shaft over the top. This means you would not have to chop the sump and could still use standard nose,bonnet and scuttle with out having to custom make every thing.

_________________
Fabricator of Roadster chassis and suspension parts using engineering machines and experience .


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:13 pm 
Offline
Site Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1016
Name: Bruce
Location: Biggleswade
Phil, I might have mislead you a bit, Rich did have a seat in, but he also had some adjustment available for it to go forwards, he's a little taller than me :lol:

I do recall that bodywork post :D As much as I'd like to be wrong the original oil pump sticks down a good 5" below the lower block line and while I agree I could raise the sides to accommodate it leaving only custom sides to be made I think overall it would be a better solution to go dry sump enabling the lump to sit lower down and traditional chassis dimensions kept.

Another aspect of this is that a certain supplier is touting opinions regarding possible all in one bodywork solutions on another well known forum :lol: I'm a fair while from needing bodywork but in truth I am hoping that by the time I get to that stage there may be more options available than there are now, so anything I can do to keep the external chassis dimensions to book spec may be more important later than they are now :?

Bruce


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:19 pm
Posts: 660
Name:
I think your going the right way with this Bruce. Dry sump and dump the weight as low as possible. I think you can stretch a roadster but you cant thicken it. As soon as that extra bit goes on the height it sort of goes out of proportion. If need be a bump in the bonnet is better than spoilng the lines. This is of course all in my humble worthless opinion :lol:

Bob


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:57 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:19 pm
Posts: 660
Name:
Looky here Bruce

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V8-BMW-E46-33 ... 4d08a98bf9


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 4:00 pm 
Offline
Site Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:59 pm
Posts: 1016
Name: Bruce
Location: Biggleswade
The E46 uses a straight 6 :( :( :( :(

Cheers for the thought though :D hows your stuff going?


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 7:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:19 pm
Posts: 660
Name:
Went to the swap meet sunday and got some shiny bits, just going to have some grub and will post up some piccies. Shame about the box but why has the seller put kin v8 on it???????? :evil:

Bob


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 73 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 3 4 58 Next

All times are UTC

 


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Baidu [Spider] and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron

Copyright 2016: Roadster Builders

 

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited