Right got a little time to play today and managed to get a few more pics for the build thread which I'l add later and play around with my highly technical home made measuring tool.

Woohoo, how it might look it the frame:


The next 2 are confirmation that a dry sump will be an absolute necesity:



About as tight as its going to get at the back:


just a little too snug:



I think I'm definitely going to have to have a modified chassis for this beast which will also mean custom/modified bodywork.

There is all so the small matter of things like where does the alternator and steering shaft go? As for body work you have to keep every thing in proportion other wise it looks odd, just making the nose,bonnet and scuttle XXmm taller does not work (we've seen this before) you need to build a taller chassis that way you can still use standard size body parts you just need custom side panels.

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Fabricator of Roadster chassis and suspension parts using engineering machines and experience .

Phil, as far as the steering goes . . . erm well probably somewhere similar to the master cylinder unfortunately my little wooden frame doesn't help there but I was also wondering about that myself earlier.

With regards to the size, I was thinking the height was ok, it looks worse as it has all the loom and bits piled on top at the moment but the top engine cover will sit around 190mm - 200mm above the top frame, looking back at saturns drawing this seemed to look ok (its the only one I can find).

Been having a little think about this and wondering what the feasibility and drawbacks would be of moving the bulkhead and engine back 3". I'm a short arse anyway so might even be a benefit. This would allow the engine to just drop between the rails, stop the front pulley fouling on the cross member and allow the original alternator to go back on.

Will still have to find solutions for the steering and master cylinders tho

who thinks what then

Chassis dims are not set in stone just mild steel which is easier to work with (apparently), if the bulk heads need moving to make it fit then so be it. You could always just add 50-75mm to BR5+6 TR3+4 to reclaim the cabin space, but it depends on your choice of seats of course as to how far you end up from SB2+3. Some thing to consider also is that if you end up making the chassis taller then you will have to lift the seat base to see over the scuttle, when you do this your legs will get shorter due to having your knees bent,elbows in ra ra ra (okey coky circa 1940's london blitz). Steering shaft could go through 2 UJ's one on top of TR8 over the OS head to be picked up by another UJ mounted to TR5 or 6. I've also had a flash of rare inspiration that allows large pedal boxes to be used with large bell housings but that one I'm keeping to my self for a later date!

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Fabricator of Roadster chassis and suspension parts using engineering machines and experience .

NO NO NO, not the numbers again

just having a cheeky chinese, after that I'l get the book out so i can make sense of what your saying Phil

You've clearly cut far too many chassis parts to know all those numbers

[quote="The V8 Files"]NO NO NO, not the numbers again

just having a cheeky chinese, quote

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z296 ... ancing.gif

Not another one of these?

Bob

Thanks Phil, that all makes sense, I might get away with only moving the bulkhead 2" - 2.5", bit difficult to work out exactly with what I'm using at the moment but at least from a feasibility point of view I seem to have a way forward I'm hoping not to raise the chassis height at all.

TR5, I'm sure I asked this before but I'l ask again, is it really necessary? most of the pictures I've seen seem to not have it in there and I'm sure that was the answer before Could I omit that with maybe some web bracing all round to compensate?

Bruce

Any thoughts on TR5?

Bruce you have to bear in mind the engine does not sit central in the chassis. Its stuffed an inch or two to the nearside.

Bob